Three finishes dominate the gold-look jewelry trade and buyers lose money when they treat them as interchangeable. The labels describe different base metals, different gold weights and, crucially, different things that can go wrong in production. Here is what each term should mean on a specification sheet.
Gold plated
A brass or alloy base with a gold layer measured in microns, applied by electroplating. There is no enforced global minimum: “gold plated” can describe a 0.03 micron flash or a serious 0.2 micron deposit. Everything depends on the number, so the specification must state micron thickness, the plating chemistry and whether an e-coat (protective clear layer) is applied. Flash-plated pieces can dull within weeks of retail display; 0.2 micron plus e-coat survives normal wear for a season or more.
Gold vermeil
Vermeil is a regulated term in the US and EU: sterling silver base with a gold layer of at least 2.5 microns. That thickness is why vermeil costs roughly double plated brass and why it wears dramatically better, the gold layer is thick enough to survive polishing and years of skin contact. Buy vermeil when the retail story needs “gold over silver” and the price point supports it.
Gold filled
Gold filled is a mechanical bond: a sheet of gold (legally 5 percent of total weight in the US definition, commonly 14/20) laminated onto a base metal, usually brass. The gold layer is measured in percentage of weight, not microns, and it is orders of magnitude thicker than plating. Gold filled pieces wear for decades and can be handed to consumers as “lifetime” product, but the process limits design: no intricate cast detail, and higher minimums because the sheet comes in standard gauges.
| Gold plated | Gold vermeil | Gold filled | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Base metal | Brass or alloy | Sterling silver | Brass |
| Gold thickness | 0.03–0.5 micron (specify) | 2.5 micron minimum | 5% of weight (14/20) |
| Relative cost | 1x | 2–3x | 3–5x |
| Wear life | Weeks to a year | Years | Decades |
| Design freedom | Full casting and detailing | Full | Sheet-forming limits detail |
| Typical MOQ | 300–600 pcs | 150–300 pcs | 500+ pcs |
What to write on the spec sheet
For plated goods: base metal, micron thickness, plating colour standard (use a Pantone-like plating chip or a sealed master), e-coat yes or no, and salt-spray or wear test hours required. For vermeil: base silver 925, gold karat, micron thickness and hallmark requirements. For filled: 14/20 or 12/20 designation and the solder content restriction if the market is the EU.
